I opened my windows and looking out into the grey city I smoked a cigarette. The cars moved with the glacial torpor of an early winter morning, and soon the wind chill made a tourniquet around the tip of my nose and fingers. A suppressed shiver ran up my neck, turning my stomach. The cold was no longer shocking, but its effect was not diminished by its extended presence. I wrapped my jacket tighter around my arms and threw the last drag of my cigarette over the balcony.
I had to sit in front of the heater for a few minutes before going to the kitchen to make coffee, warming myself slowly. I got dressed quickly and went outside with my new shoes, holding my umbrella overhead so as not to bump into fellow pedestrians. The security the umbrella covering my head provided was waning, and I could tell that the nylon cloth attached to some flimsy spokes would no longer protect me from the torrential downpour which was beginning now. It felt more of a burden to carry around this artificial appendage than to keep my hair dry. I threw the umbrella in my bag, and wondered if I should just throw it away, but decided to hold onto it. I ducked into the metro and felt the rain follow me down the stairs, threatening to wet my heels, but I was tucked away and safe inside.
I boarded the train and took a seat on one of the three chairs facing south. Across from and facing me was a man and a woman, both were looking straight ahead, acknowledging each other by ignoring each other.
The stop where I was to transfer came quickly, and I followed a young man out of the train, following him in line with the few other people heading towards the exit. I turned off to the tunnel which led to my next train.
In a dream, I was in a crowded room, it was dark with a few strobe lights going on, and in the background I could hear thumping music, but my ears were muted. I walked towards the light coming through a small window at the top of a wall, through the sea of people, and arrived at nothing; when I got to the window it was 100 meters off the ground. I reached my arm towards it, and felt my fingertips touching something sticky and flexible. I realized I was inside a giant bubble. I held my breath for a few minutes without struggling for breath, hoping to float to the window, but someone knocked me over and the air fell out of my lungs. I could not get up for a moment, but when I did, a handsome climbed out of the crowd and pushed me back to the ground. I lay on the ground crying, and my tears began to fill up the room. I floated to the top on a wave of my own tears, watching the dancers struggling to swim, drowning in a pool of their own vomit and sweat. As I got closer to the top, the window began to grow until it was the size of the stained glass rose at Notre-Dame. Finally, I arrived at the window, which had no glass and I, in my bubble, slipped easily over the edge into complete darkness. I woke up momentarily and fell back asleep to a dreamless night.
I walked to the park this morning to get some fresh air. I was feeling sluggish and tired by the time I got there. I lay down in the grass in the bigger part of the park and watched as the clouds drifted past, some bigger than others, some smaller, some more opaque, some wispy, some clinging onto others, all moving at the same speed. There were people all around me but I spoke to no one; mostly runners and nannies. A man approached me for a lighter, and I let him use mine. On a bench next to me, there were two young men exchanging stories. I listened to their conversation, keeping my gaze fixed on a barren tree in the lot across from me.
I opened the window to another gloomy day. There was a snowstorm in New York, though apparently a mild one my mom told me. It got very cold suddenly, and I was sitting smoking a cigarette on in islet separating two, one-way streets. I saw ashes floating in the air, and a big gust of wind brought more. I tapped my cigarette with my index finger, the ashes remained stagnant. A man walked past me, we made eye contact for a moment. I realized, then, that it was not ash, but snow.
Winter was joyless.
I got off a bus and made my way up a small alleyway, thinking I would find myself nowhere I had been before, but instead found myself in a familiar public square. It was a Friday, and they were hosting an open air market, the same one I had gone to with my cousin a few months prior. Many parts of the city revealed themselves to me in form of memories, those of family vacations, of art I’ve seen, and of dreams I’ve had. I decided not to go to the museum this time, there were several travel groups outside and I did not want to bother with the noise and distraction.
I ended up finding a cute store which sold used clothes, books, furniture, and had a gallery downstairs. I looked around for a moment, saw some cute things, then left.
Henry James says in his chapter The Velvet Glove, about his young Lord:
It was easy because the presence before him was from moment to moment referring itself back to some recent observation or memory; something caught somewhere, within a few weeks or months, as he had moved about, and that seemed to flutter forth at this stir of the folded leaves of his recent experience very much as gathered, faded flower, placed there for “pressing,” might drop from between the pages of a volume opened at hazard. (The Velvet Glove, 143).
He goes on to criticize the young Lord’s ineptitude and transparency, and his manner of, “having too much imagination,” (143). Like the young Lord, Paris is an open book, with pressed souvenirs falling from between its pages.
I walked to the backside of the museum to admire the facade, then past the café I had gone to with my cousin, then past the music store where I bought my guitar, then past the tobacco shop where I bought my stamps, then past the fountain where my class once met, then into the metro. Edith Wharton says in her A Backwards Glance, “my thirteen years of Paris life were spent entirely in the rue de Varenne; and all those years rise up to meet me whenever I turn the corner of the street,” (226). This is exactly how I felt walking there. All the bad — all the good, it is not the nature of the memory, but the memory itself which is pleasant, an apparition of a familiarity, a home within itself.
Henry Miller, in Walking Up and Down in China, observes all of the people on 42nd street, “smiling through life with that demented, glazed look in the eyes,” characterizing American optimism as glassy eyed - an evasion of reality, a fake, a color copy, out of touch with reality. Their, “beautiful white teeth,” compared to the beautiful white Haussmannian buildings, while the French are fixing their façades, the Americans are fixing their teeth. Paris does not smile because it makes things run more smoothly, it smiles because it is beauty - “the gnarled stump of an old redwood, solitary and majestic she stands…soft, gemlike, a holy citadel,” (391), but even that is a Paris displays its scars, its past; she wore no braces in her youth, but did get a facelift in her later years - which shows. Paris is every part, “you have forgotten…rain is softly falling, [and] suddenly in the aimless wandering you come to the street through which you have walked time and time again in your sleep and this is the street you are walking through,” (396).
Every street is forgotten, and yet déjà vu. Every block is unfamiliar, yet familiar all the same. A turn, whether right or left, becomes a straightaway, heading in the same direction from whence it came. Paris’ fine façades are masking the deteriorating interior: courtyards overtaken by vines, paint peeling, time and space reclaiming its property. Miller says it is when we no longer fear life and its inevitable end - when we embrace the vicissitudes of life, the ebb and the flow - that we will find freedom from the hellish torment of life.
When the tourists came, the city changed. Gone were les parisiennes, replaced by the Germans, the Italians, the Americans, the British, the Chinese, Korean, Mexican, Brazilian, etc. Paris is a private city, then one day it is not.
Paris in tourism season was like Disneyland. Photography World: Irving Penn’s world of petits métiers, August Sander’s petits observations, Cartier-Bresson’s petits moments. Ennuiland: from a friend’s apartment in Montmartre, I see a line cook standing outside smoking, wearing all white against an all blue building, against an all blue sky. He’s always out there smoking, it seems. Victoireville: The soldiers in the Marais walk with their big guns, big muscles, big boots. Saint-Salope: the whores in Saint Denis stand in the sex shop doorways with their plastic shoes and ill fitted tops.
In a metro tunnel, I encountered one of those six-piece bands with the trumpet case filled with money and C.D.’s. They smiled at me as I passed, and I wondered if they remember the time I stopped and gave them money a few weeks ago. I imagined that they did, or else why would they be smiling at me?
I exited a park, then walked down to the river shore. I took a spiral staircase to the barge, and stopped for a moment to sit on a log. Across the river from me, two men were playing music, a guitar and a trumpet. I sat listening to their music for a moment, then walked towards a green patch on the riverside. An elderly couple walked past me, elbows linked, eyes tracing ground. It was a beautiful day. I watched a boat pass under a bridge, its passengers waving to the people on the shore. I waved back, and the kids started waving faster, more frantically.
I walked towards an open gate, I didn’t enter, but peered in to see what was hidden. Cement brick, parked cars, cobblestone, nothing out of the ordinary. I walked away feeling less discontented. I forged onward, searching for life, finding a prop warehouse, and a hair salon for people with dreadlocks. Five faces with similar expressions and identical hairstyles turned to watch me walk past the window. They all seemed to be wearing yellow, green, and red.
I watched as a large van parked in a tight spot outside my window, the driver’s daughter screaming directions in Russian. He had to ask someone in the hair salon to move his bike, and the man came out and happily did so, waving goodbye as he walked back into the shop to finish his client’s hair. The driver got out of the car and gave his daughter a hug, and the walked down the street smiling, hugging each other from the side.
Paris is a kodak moment.
James says, “if he had imputed to them conditions it was all his own doing: it came from his inveterate habit of abysmal imputation, the snatching of the ell wherever the inch peeped out, without which where would have been the tolerability of life?” (147). It may be that Paris is no more than an inch, but without the rest there is plenty of room for imagination, and imagination, James argues, is the “tolerability of life” - a way to tolerate life, and the part of life which is tolerable.
Fiction is the reality we live in. In order to survive, in order to prosper, in order to live happily, in order to not cripple under the pressing weight of a fear known to all of us as uncertainty, in order to control, in order to educate, in order to escape, we have invented fiction. If nothing exists, fiction does. Death may be a respite, but even then maybe not; it is uncertain what will come of you when your body dies. Nobody has an answer. There are answers posed, however, in fiction. Through analogy and metaphor, everything can be symbolic if it’s true and well written.
I met up with a friend of mine from New York who was in Paris when I first got here. He asked me what I’d been doing in Paris, I told him I had been walking around, getting lost. He said good, and that was exactly what I was supposed to be doing.
I got lost on every walk I took, so predictably so, that I stopped planning actual directions and instead gave myself a time frame and a general area to explore, with the hopes that I might find some landmark, with no intentions or expectations. I was able to rely on the metro system: a station every few blocks or so, a security net in case I get too lost to find my way home. My intuitive sense of direction, which normally guides me in the right direction, went completely astray, every turn I made took me deeper into an unknown area, every desire brought me further from comfort.
I took a walk in Montmartre just a few days ago. I bussed my way to the back of the cathedral - Marie 18 - and climbed up from behind, through the winding streets, past the cathedral, past the Dalí museum, past the cafés and tourists, then down a flight of stairs on a hill, past the cathedral, past a row of restaurants, some souvenir shops, past the funicular station, down the hill leading to Pigalle, then I took the train home. I had gone in search of a sweater but found nothing and instead took a whole roll of film - 36 photos. I did not get lost.